Any form of energy, when not properly controlled or harnessed, can result in serious danger to those who use it. Electricity at any voltage can be dangerous and should always be approached with caution. Direct Dangers of Electricity include a variety of hazards that include Electric Shock, Physical Burns, Neurological Damage and Ventricular fibrillation resulting in death. The indirect dangers of electricity include for example fall due electric shock, an explosion, or a fire.
Electric Current affects the body when it flows through. Human can feel around about 1 milliampere (mA). The current may cause tissue damage or heart fibrillation if it is sufficiently high. 10-20 mA is beginning of sustained muscular contraction (“Can’t let go” current) and 30 mA can cause the onset of potentially fatal respiratory paralysis. A low-voltage (110 to 220 V), 50 or 60-Hz AC current travelling through the chest for a fraction of a second may induce ventricular fibrillation at currents as low as 60mA.
Today’s U.S. electricity system is a complex network of power plants, transmission and distribution wires, and end-users of electricity.
Electrical safety is the leading subject in the North American power industry, but at home people in USA are stuck with a 100+ year old plug design that is far behind other countries in terms of safety features.
ARE AMERICAN PLUG SOCKETS DANGEROUS? video gives some observations about the differences between the UK and US electrics and fire safety:
“Each year, approximately 2,400 children suffer severe shock and burns when they stick items into the slots of electrical receptacles. It is estimated that there are six to 12 child fatalities a year related to this.”
I guess that data makes me wonder about those who say they are safe.
Perhaps the weakest link in the US electrical system video gives on overview of dangers of electrical outlets and extension cords.
Most of North America (and Central America, and some of South America) use connectors standardized by the National Electrical Manufacturers Association. Those connectors are called NEMA connectors.
NEMA 1-15 ungrounded (Type A) plugs have two parallel blades and are rated 15 A at 125 volts. They provide no ground connection but will fit a grounding NEMA 5-15 receptacle. Ungrounded NEMA-1 outlets are not permitted in new construction in the United States and Canada, but can still be found in older buildings. You can shock yourself with many USA NEMA connectors if you just slipped around the end at the wrong moment. That is the original plug from the very early 20th century… It couldn’t be changed later because there were too many NEMA-1 outlets in service.
NEMA 5-15 grounded (Type B) plug has two flat parallel blades like NEMA 1-15, and a ground (earth) pin. It is rated 15 A at 125 volts. The National Electrical Contractors Association’s National Electrical Installation Standards (NECA 130-2010) recommends that sockets are mounted with the ground hole up so that a falling object makes first contact with the ground pin. This socket is recommended in IEC standard 60906-2 for 120-volt 60 Hz installations. NEMA 5-15 grounded (Type B) sockets accepts also NEMA 1-15 ungrounded (Type A) plugs. In stage lighting, this connector is sometimes known as PBG for Parallel Blade with Ground, Edison or Hubbell. “Typical” 120v receptacles are protected with 15A breaker. This protects the outlet against overload.
Starting with the 2008 Edition of the NEC (National Electrical Code) the NEC has required tamper-resistant receptacles be used in certain locations. The NEC has been increasing the requirement for receptacles to be tamper-resistant with the revisions after that.
Tamper-resistant receptacles work by having a plastic shutter in front of where the plug gets inserted, which is only moved out of place if objects are placed into both slots of the receptacle TR-rated outlets feature “TR” engraved into the outlet faceplate, typically between the two prongs. The shutters remain closed until the proper plug is inserted. This ensures that items like knives, forks, or loose jewelry are not able to access plugs, thus reducing electrical shock injury.
Nothing is safe. There are only degrees of safety. None of these designs can always prevent a determined or negligent person from electrocuting themselves.
There are some people that think that TR Tamper Resistant Outlets Suck
There are also higher current than 15A outputs in use in USA, but a general-use receptacle cannot be on any circuit larger than 20 amps. The NEMA 5-20 AP variant has blades perpendicular to each other. The receptacle has a T-slot for the neutral blade which accepts either 15 A parallel-blade plugs or 20 A plugs. The NEMA 5-20 AP wall socket can accept both 20A plug and 15A plug.
While normal electrical outlets in USA output 120V AC, that’s not the whole story and the voltage the power distribution to most houses work. The distribution voltage is normally the sum of the two 120V lines that are are at opposite phase (180 degree phase shift) plus neutral wire. But in some cases power can come from two 120V lines that have 120 degrees phase shift (some locations which use certain type of three phase power feed). Learn about the US electrical system in this The US electrical system is not 120V video:
US electrical system uses circuit breakers as wiring and fire protection. Circuit breakers are there to stop the cable in the walls of your house melting and possibly catching fire – circuit breakers and fuses perform the function of stopping a fire (which of course is also very dangerous to life). Standard circuit breakers shut off power when the current is too high, like 10, 15, or 20 amps, but a mere 0.030 amps through a body can cause paralysis of skeletal muscles and stop the human heart.
If you are at new house built according current code, you are likely to have also GFCI or AFCI designed trip before anything bad happens. GFCI can protect in many cases against human touching live wire and ground at the same time. But GFCI does not provide protection in all cases, for example if you have your finger between live and neutral contacts on mains plug. AFCI is designed trip if there is arching on the wiring like bad contact, loose wire or failing insulation on wire. AFCI can detect many problems, but not all.
Generally, when things get hot because of overloading, it’s at the connection point and not in the wire. For instance, a lot of electrical fires start at the plug/socket interface either because the connection is poor, there could be corrosion, etc. And sometimes they can happen when nothing is overloaded! This is one of the circumstances in which arc-fault circuit interrupters can save lives.
Overloading an electrical outlet is a common cause of electrical problems. Theoretically the breaker should protect the outlet against overloads, but it does not always do that especially if outlet or wiring is in bad condition. Do not use cords, plugs or outlets that appear damaged, replace them. Always ensure plugs are fully pushed in. Check all outlets to ensure they are cool to the touch, have protective faceplates and are in proper working order. Only grasp plugs by the plug body, keep fingers away from the front edge near the pins and do not pull plugs out by the cords.
There is a a recommendation that do not use extension cords or multi-outlet converters for appliances, because there are many problems related to US extension cords.
Damaged power cords are a serious residential electrical safety risk, and they are capable of causing both fires and electrocution. All power and extension cords should be checked regularly for signs of fraying and cracking. Power cords should not be stapled into place or run under rugs and furniture.
Besides making sure that the extension cord is in good shape, you need to be really careful that type of extension cord you use in USA. An extension cord essentially is a bundle of insulated electrical wires with a plug on each end. Electrical current flowing through wires generates heat, and when too much current flows through a wire, it can overheat and melt the plastic insulation of the wires, causing short circuits and fires.
Equipment or in-wall wire heating is normally not a problem when you plug an appliance directly into an outlet using its factory cord because the manufacturer has sized the cord appropriately for the electrical current demand of the device. The size of wiring inside wall is rated based on the breaker size on the mains panel (typically 15A or 20A). The size of the wire on the extension cord can be condiderably thinner, and the mains panel breaker might not protect it against overheating due overload. Some better extension cords can have their own overload breaker built-in but not all.
I think allowing unfused 16 gauge (16AWG = 1.5 mm2) extension cords into the market is a potentially bad link in the chain that we could probably do with cutting out. That wire is still pretty OK up to 15A load current, will get warn. If you plug it to 20A outlet and load with 20A total load, it can get dangerously hot (around 1.8 times more power heating the cable at 20A than at 15A). Pulling 20 amps through that cord made it get very hot quite quickly.
In fairness, it used to be much worse. 18 gauge (maybe even 20 gauge) extension cords were available many years ago, but regulators had the sense to make 16 the minimum as time went on.
There are also small compact ungrounded extension cords that have such designs whete users can plug in plug so wrongly that they are halfway out leaving the live parts so that the live main voltage can be present on the exposed mains plug pins.
Most electrical fires aren’t the result of a single thing; they’re a cascade of individually not-great circumstances combining to make a bad situation. In order to reduce the risk of fires, we’ve continually been making the not-great things less bad.
272 Comments
Tomi Engdahl says:
Here’s why you don’t plug space heaters into power strips
https://lm.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fox2detroit.com%2Fnews%2Fheres-why-you-dont-plug-space-heaters-into-power-strips&h=AT1RFbdWgXwvMsKdbg_zH1kNO-dgld17n_z895ExluC5vE0RbCunP9B4OvgYgCo2E3Z8eKYvzYUrWrhYH7Iyk7hgIOfy4Afavfa9YFc9STBjZEYnyRgBN2vSFM5aWENJXA
A fire department is warning the public about the dangers of plugging a space heater into a power strip.
“The weather is getting colder, and people are pulling out their space heaters. We just wanted to remind you that you should NEVER plug a heater into a power strip,” the fire department wrote on its Facebook page. “These units are not designed to handle the high current flow needed for a space heater and can overheat or even catch fire due to the added energy flow. Please share and stay safe this Winter season.”
The Electrical Safety Foundation International says heating equipment is the second leading cause of home fires in the U.S. with more than 65,000 fires being attributed to them each year. The ESFI reports the fire result in hundreds of deaths, thousands of injuries and millions of dollars in property damage.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Daisy chaining is usually a result of inadequate access to power outlets and can lead to overloaded circuits and fire risk. … Extension cords are meant to be used as temporary wiring but often become permanent and in turn become a fire hazard.
Tomi Engdahl says:
5 Most Common Wire Stripping Mistakes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4W_Iv6LnazU
Some of the most common issues when homeowners take on DIY electrical projects is associated to simply stripping wire. There are multiple different things which can go wrong and I will quickly outline the 5 most common mistakes and how to avoid them along with letting you know the length of insulation you should remove when side wiring a light switch or an outlet.
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://nerdtechy.com/best-outdoor-power-strips
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://www.thedrive.com/reviews/30518/best-outdoor-extension-cord
Tomi Engdahl says:
HOW TO MAKE A SUPER EXTENSION CORD! (Perfect for Christmas!)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EseFbug7cMg
Extension Cord companies aren’t gonna like this one! In this video we show you how to wire up your broken extension cords to make them better, safer, and essentially keep them forever. We hope you pick up a tip or two, let us know what you think! Thanks for watching and we’ll see ya on the next one!
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prospective_short-circuit_current
The prospective short-circuit current (PSCC), available fault current, or short-circuit making current is the highest electric current which can exist in a particular electrical system under short-circuit conditions. It is determined by the voltage and impedance of the supply system. It is of the order of a few thousand amperes for a standard domestic mains electrical installation, but may be as low as a few milliamperes in a separated extra-low voltage (SELV) system or as high as hundreds of thousands of amps in large industrial power systems.
In designing domestic power installations, the short-circuit current available on the electrical outlets should not be too high or too low. The effect of too high short-circuit current is discussed in the previous section. The short-circuit current should be around 20 times the rating of the circuit to ensure the branch circuit protection clears a fault quickly. Quick disconnecting is needed, because during a line-to-ground short circuit the grounding pin potential on the power outlet can rise relative to the local earth (concrete floor, water pipe etc.) to a dangerous voltage, which needs to be shut down quickly for safety. If the short-circuit current is lower than this figure, special precautions need to be taken to make sure that the system is safe; those usually include using a residual-current device (a.k.a. ground fault interrupter) for extra protection.
The short-circuit current available on the electrical outlets is often tested when inspecting new electrical installations to make sure that the short-circuit current is within reasonable limits. A high short-circuit current on the outlet also shows that the resistance from the electrical panel to the outlet is low, so there won’t be an unacceptably high voltage drop on the wires under normal load.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Can a breaker still trip even with the handle locked into the ON position?
Yes, the circuit breaker standard UL489 requires circuit breakers to be “trip free”, meaning that they will still trip if the handle is held in the ON position.
https://www.se.com/us/en/faqs/FA115241/
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/installing-electrical-outlets-which-way-is-up/
Tomi Engdahl says:
The most commonly used voltage in the US is 115/120Vac to supply households and commercial facilities. For residential properties two-phase 208Vac (phase to phase) or 240Vac (via a distribution transformer) is available for those users that require higher power for electric dryers, air conditioning and electric ovens.
208Vac three-phase is commonly used in commercial and light industrial facilities.
US also uses 480vac on 3 phase in commercial/industrial buildings.
In larger commercial properties in addition to 208 and 120Vac, 480Vac three-phase power is supplied to the building in a “WYE” (or Y) configuration
The 480Vac three-phase is used to power large electrical equipment like fork lift battery chargers, ovens and heavy machinery.
With this configuration, a 277Vac supply is derived, (480Vac ÷√3=277Vac) measuring from one of the phases to the neutral connection. This lower voltage supply requires less insulation and can be used with smaller and less expensive switchgear and wiring. In the US this has been used for fluorescent lighting and HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning) for many years.
Until LED solid state lighting became commercialised in the late 2000s, in general the electronic power supply industry did not produce 277V rated AC-DC supplies. General awareness of the existence of the 277Vac mains input was very limited.
That soon changed as LEDs require DC power to operate and LED ‘drivers’ quickly came onto the market, rated for use with 100V (Japan), 120V, 208V, 230V/240V (Europe) or 277Vac nominal inputs. For these power supplies to be used globally, an operating input voltage of 90 to 305Vac is required, satisfying the regulatory requirement of a +/-10% input variation on the nominal supply voltage.
https://blog.uk.tdk-lambda.com/uk/2018/04/04/how-is-the-us-277vac-input-voltage-derived-and-why-is-it-used/
Tomi Engdahl says:
2 phase and split phase are different. Residential electric service in the United States (120/240 Vac) is sometimes called two-phase service but this is NOT correct. It is only single-phase, since both line voltages are derived from a single phase of a distribution transformer with a center tapped neutral and are 180° out of phase with each other.
Two-phase service is an obsolete style of electrical power distribution where two phases are provided that are 90° out of phase with each other. There were two line wires and one neutral, so two-phase service was commonly a two-phase three-wire service. https://ctlsys.com/support/two-phase_electrical_service/ As for 3ph power, 240 l-n 480 l-l on high voltage 3ph 120 l-n 240 l-l on lower voltage 3ph that’s on systems that don’t have a stinger leg. (208 low 277 high)
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://hackaday.com/2010/04/01/how-to-make-a-mains-crossover-cable/
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://ifunny.co/picture/of-this-double-ended-male-plug-does-not-exist-trese-v1zlToND8?s=cl
Tomi Engdahl says:
How is the US 277Vac input voltage derived and why is it used?
https://blog.uk.tdk-lambda.com/uk/2018/04/04/how-is-the-us-277vac-input-voltage-derived-and-why-is-it-used/
Tomi Engdahl says:
The most commonly used voltage in the US is 115/120Vac to supply households and commercial facilities. For residential properties two-phase 208Vac (phase to phase) or 240Vac (via a distribution transformer) is available for those users that require higher power for electric dryers, air conditioning and electric ovens. 208Vac three-phase is commonly used in commercial and light industrial facilities.
In larger commercial properties in addition to 208 and 120Vac, 480Vac three-phase power is supplied to the building in a “WYE” (or Y) configuration
https://blog.uk.tdk-lambda.com/uk/2018/04/04/how-is-the-us-277vac-input-voltage-derived-and-why-is-it-used/
Tomi Engdahl says:
Difference Between VOLTAGES – Why We Need Them All
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksrE79uLBaY
What is the difference between all of these different voltages? Why are they used, what’s the purpose behind them, and where do the numbers come from?
Tomi Engdahl says:
120V from both 240V single phase and 208V 3 phase systems?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uES1i2jFwJE
Hello everyone, welcome to At-Man Unlimited. Last time I took a math class 120 + 120 did not equal 208! So what gives? How can you get 120V from a 240V residential system AND a 208V 3 phase commercial systems? How can that possibly work? Let’s find out!
Tomi Engdahl says:
RESIDENTIAL ELECTRICAL MATERIALS Apprentice Electricians Should Know
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNQsFbEwxMo
Tomi Engdahl says:
Electrician Explains How Circuit Breakers And Electrical Panels Work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t2de7A2d3gE
How to Connect a New Circuit
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFhm73RE8Pk
Tomi Engdahl says:
Why high voltage three-phase AC – AC Power Transmission and Distribution – RSD Academy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaYDPjgbcA8
Power is distributed at very high voltages and in three-phase alternating current. Here’s why.
The reading assignment for this lecture is at:
https://rsdacademy.net/textbooks/acelectronics/Part1/PageSetup.php?Page=9&FileName=Transformers
Tomi Engdahl says:
Physics and History of Why USA uses 120 volts and not 220 volts
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yRGvMgieEU
Why do 1/3 of the countries in the world use around 110 volts and the other 2/3rds use around 220 volts? I go through the history and the physics to explain why it is so confusing.
History of 3-phase Electricity & Distribution
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEkegQanD2I
Who invented 3-phase electrical distribution? Nikola Tesla? Mikhail Dolivo-Dobrovolsky? In this video I go through the detailed history from primary sources of this important EE discovery, how it works, and why it is important.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Why 3 Phase Power? Why not 6 or 12?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqZtptHnC2I
Tomi Engdahl says:
Why Do Outlets Have Different Types of Holes?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-UraBUoui2M
As electricians, we are called upon to install (among other things) many different types of receptacles to give our clients something to plug their equipment into. But why do the receptacles look so different from one another. In the latest episode of Electrician U, Dustin dives into this topic to give our followers answers to their questions.
Tomi Engdahl says:
curiosity teardown: cheap ac voltmeter
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXXZ2aBxQ1w
I got curious about the cheap panel mount voltmeters i got in a recent mailbag, so what else is there to do. Time to tear it apart and see what’s inside.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Power Outlets PISS ME OFF [RANT]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pa6AHZSgR6g
Why are electrical sockets different around the world?
Tomi Engdahl says:
ah, it was edison who designed those potential killers, good to know
https://www.sweetwater.com/insync/edison-plug/
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edison_screw
Tomi Engdahl says:
How to Make a GENERATOR CORD that will LAST FOREVER! 30AMP 240V
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVpKizAQLr4
How to make a Generator Cable that’s BETTER than any one you can buy. 100% Copper construction extension cord is built to last forever with heavy duty cable & dependable construction.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Worst Electrical Mistake You Can Make – Backfeeding Generators
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kjpS1vfGio
Companies selling these cords should be stopped. Is backfeeding safe? Is backfeeding legal? How can you safely connect a generator to your house.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Camlock (electrical)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camlock_(electrical)
A camlock or cam-lock is an interchangeable electrical connector, often used in temporary electrical power production and distribution, predominantly in North America.[1] Originally a trade name as Cam-Lok, it is now a generic term.[2] Each camlock connector carries a single phase, pole, or conductor; multiple camlock connectors will be used to make a complete electrical supply or circuit.
The most common form is the 16 series, rated at 400 amperes with 105 °C terminations. Also in common use is the 15 series (mini-cam), rated at 150 amperes. A larger version is made denoted as the 17 series with ratings up to 760 A.
Camlock is generally used where temporary connections of 3-phase and/or more than 50 A are needed. Applications include connecting large temporary generators or load banks to distribution panels or building disconnects. Common scenarios include testing, emergencies, temporary special events, and traveling stage shows with large lighting and sound equipment. They are usually found only in professional environments, where connections are performed by qualified personnel.
The National Electric Code (NEC) only specifies colors for ground and neutral: Green for the equipment grounding (safety) conductor (NEC Article 250.119), and white or grey for the neutral (grounded) conductor (NEC Article 200.6). These colors may not be used for any other purpose, nor may their purpose use a different color. No other colors are specified by the NEC for general power distribution.
Nonetheless, the following conventions exist
The UK system has two established camlock colour codes.
How To Install Cam Lock Connector
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCO48U-6IPE
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://p3connectors.com/camlock-connectors/
A camlock connector, is an electrical single pole connector often used in temporary electrical power distribution. Camlock plugs are predominantly used in the North America because it is outlawed across Europe. The connector is generally used when 3 phase connections or a charge of more than 50A is required. Cam-Lock connectors are also used to build disconnects to lighting dimmer racks and distribution panels and to connect large generators. Usually found in professional and industrial settings. Powersafe connectors are colour coded, individually keyed, and have an IP67 rating, with finger proof insulation to remove touching a live connector, this removes the exposed contact point inside the insulator which can cause serious injury or even death.
CamLock Colour Codes
The Camlok colour codes are similar to other single pole devices in the USA:
Green = Earth/Grounding Connector
White = Neutral
Black = Line 1
Red = Line 2
Blue = Line 3
Can I use CamLock connectors in Europe?
No. Cam industrial plugs have been outlawed across Europe because of their hazardous nature. The connectors are sometimes referred to jokingly as ‘suicide connectors’, however the dangers of using the plug are no joke. The exposed contact point inside the insulator can cause serious injury or even death. Similarly, disconnecting a high current circuit under load can cause similar catastrophic outcomes.
Is there a safe alternative to CamLock?
Introducing: Powersafe Single Pole Connectors
Powersafe single pole connectors are the highest rated and safest high current, low voltage plug for events, power, military and utility industries. Phase 3’s electrical devices are the standard industry replacement for the unsafe CamLock connector. Powersafe connectors are the perfect replacement due to the finger-proof contacts and individual line locking mechanisms.
Cam-Lock vs Powersafe
We hear two answers when we ask US customers, ‘Why do you still use CamLock Connectors?’
“There’s no alternative UL approved connector!” OR “The alternative’s lead times are too long!”
Well…Is there a CamLock Connector alternative with short lead times?
YES! Phase 3 have manufactured UL Approved POWERSAFE Connectors and have a distribution network developed across the United States of American and Canada with industry leading delivery times of as short as one week.
‘I really don’t know much about the Camlock alternative…’ Take a look at the CamLock vs Powersafe Infographic:
Tomi Engdahl says:
The Outlet that Saves Lives
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GlM6PE2kKVY
Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter or GFCI outlet is the hero in the washrooms! Make sure you have it installed, and you plug your electronics in GFCI.
Tomi Engdahl says:
20A Stage Pin (Bates) to NEMA 5-15 (Edison) Adapter
https://lexproducts.com/powerflex_detail?part=A5016
Tomi Engdahl says:
http://festivalandeventproduction.com/special-guides/electricity-guide/
Tomi Engdahl says:
How Does an Electrical Service Work? Electrical Service Panels Explained
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ka73EcknrYo
The term “Electrical Service” can be confusing for many electricians. What does it consist of? Why are there different sizes? Why do we have overhead and underground services? Where does the service start/stop and where does the building power take over? In the latest episode of Electrician U, Dustin answers several of these questions surrounding the topic.
Tomi Engdahl says:
80% of People Use the Wrong Screwdriver For Electrical Work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKpWX3nCyDQ
There are much better options than a Phillips Head Screwdriver when doing DIY Electrical projects around the house. With minimal investment, you will have an easier time securely and safely wiring outlets and light switches using the right tool for the job.
Chapters
0:00 Intro
0:48 Issue with Phillips Head Screwdriver
1:45 Issue with Slotted Screwdriver
2:45 Better Option
4:29 Best Option
6:21 Wrap Up
Viewer comments:
For the average home DIYer, that doesn’t want to invest in another “specialty” tool that may see very minimal use, I’ll go with the Robertson as I already have several of those loose bits and didn’t really know what they were used for but now I do!
I use the Milwaukee 1000V insulated ECX screwdriver. It comes in a set of 3, the other 2 drivers are slotted and Phillips. I love my ECX, it turns tighter, and the driver never slips off the screw
To be precise, though, that slotted screwdriver is wrong for that particular screw (too small). A properly sized slotted screwdriver should be as wide as the head (or nearly so), and thick enough that it provides a tight fit in the slot.
extremely interesting. I’ve always used the regular or philips, which ever was handy. But now that I see this, I do have one of those little kits around with multiple bits which has the square bits. I’ll start using that from now on. Thanks for this tip.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Does a GFCI Outlet Still Provide Protection Without A Ground Wire?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPViPA7It8o
In this video, I will walk you through the reason a GFCI outlet still provides ground fault protection with or without a ground wire. I will also outline why I have used this installation in the past to make my properties safer.
Tomi Engdahl says:
What are IG Receptacles and How Do They Work? (Isolated Ground Receptacles)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFtv59smv0c
Perhaps you have seen these orange receptacles installed in places before or heard of them. But what exactly is an Isolated Ground Receptacle (IG or IGR)? In the latest episode of Electrician U, Dustin dives into the topic of what an isolated ground is and where we should be using these types of devices.
Viewer comments:
Grounding for signal integrity (less interference), as opposed to safety, is a whole special art ! The chip maker Analog Devices, has many documents on this issue when it comes to instrumentation for electrical and electronics engineering. But in short, the “best” grounding scheme (most of the time) is the “star method”. That is run a separate ground for each device, back to one point. That point is also connected to the “safety ground”, which is the one connected to neutral.
But that’s just most of the time. The true best ground routing, is specific to the details of that specific job. My normal response, is that “the application” determines what is the best method. So, in your case, it may not be as rigorous, if needed at all.
Grounding for a large radar installation, or TV broadcast transmitter, are not a little green insulated 12 gauge wires. Its whole conducting structures, interconnected with heavy braiding.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Hawaiian Hotel Safety Failures
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=op-8VCIX1mU
0:00 Start the Travel
2:48 Checking the Smoke Detector
4:21 Searching for Fuse Panel
5:37 Checking the Fuse Panel and Power Line
7:29 Checking the Power Outlet
9:30 Testing the GFCI Outlets
13:14 Summary of Failures
14:52 Keysight Innovation Challenge 2022
Tomi Engdahl says:
The Crazy World of AC Electricity #shorts
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPNhNEqohVY
Tomi Engdahl says:
2 Most Common Issues DIYers Make With Metal Electrical Boxes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GUODvOVz10
Metal electrical boxes have many advantages over their plastic counterparts but there are a few things that are classically done incorrectly. I will walk you through 2 of the most common examples I see in houses around my area. And then more importantly how to correct or avoid these 2 issues.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Plug Won’t Stay In Outlet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0h_r2bD5bMs
This is a very common issue especially as the number of devices we are charging with 2 prong plugs seems to be increasing each year. I will show you why this happens by opening up an old outlet and also how to replace the old outlet with a new one. We will also discuss the recommended grade of outlet to use lowering the chance of failure in the future.
10 Things You Didn’t Know About Outlets
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vUlvrX4R3jI
This video reviewing 10 things that have come up in comments from past videos to quickly review little-known design features, install best practices, and manufacturer details for common electrical outlets.
Tomi Engdahl says:
What Outlet Should You Buy For Your Home | Commercial vs Residential
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kX6xnOksQTc
many licensed electricians said “that outlet is crap.” This piqued my interest as this was the type of outlet I had used for many projects in the past. Of course, I understood for less than $0.50 the outlet could not be of the highest quality but didn’t know exactly why and how commercial (more expensive) outlets were different. So I broke out a hacksaw and took a look inside a residential Leviton 5320 outlet and a Commercial Leviton CBR15 outlet. This video will share what I found and also share my decision on what outlets to use moving forward on my projects.
Note: This video does not advise on the proper techniques needed to meet the Nationa Electrical Code and is for entertainment purposes only.
Tomi Engdahl says:
80% of People Use the Wrong Screwdriver For Electrical Work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKpWX3nCyDQ
There are much better options than a Phillips Head Screwdriver when doing DIY Electrical projects around the house. With minimal investment, you will have an easier time securely and safely wiring outlets and light switches using the right tool for the job.
Chapters
0:00 Intro
0:48 Issue with Phillips Head Screwdriver
1:45 Issue with Slotted Screwdriver
2:45 Better Option
4:29 Best Option
6:21 Wrap Up
Tomi Engdahl says:
The electrical code allows outlets to be installed with the ground plug hole facing up, down or sideways. It’s up to you, there is no standard electric outlet orientation. So that means there really is no such thing as upside down outlets. One way isn’t safer than the other — as long as the outlet is wired correctly.30 Mar 2022
What is the Correct Way to Install Electrical Outlets: Ground Up or Down?
https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/which-is-the-correct-and-incorrect-way-to-install-an-electrical-outlet/
Tomi Engdahl says:
HOW TO MAKE THE ULTIMATE EXTENSION CORD!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hbTXKn-XMkw
Tomi Engdahl says:
HOW TO INSTALL FLOODLIGHTS (Safe, Watertight, and Properly Grounded)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4stl2Hqjuw
Tomi Engdahl says:
The BEST power strip for musicians and DJs? Furman SS-6b Quick Look
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNckrxQ3AQE
The Furman SS6b is a metal power strip and surge suppressor designed with musicians in mind. There is a bunch of confusion though about how these types of strips compare to power conditioners costing much more. This quick video addresses some of the very basics of planning your power setup and where a strip like this would be appropriate.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Dangerous Wiring Issues In Lights and Outlets
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Q5wYV3flKI
Did you know that most lights and devices will still work if the hot and neutral wires are swapped? This is called reversed polarity and can cause an unsafe condition at your light fixtures and outlets. I will walk you through how to easily identify if you have any of these issues in your home ensuring you and your family are safe.
Chapters
0:00 Intro
0:50 My Bathroom Setup
0:47 3 Different Types of 120 Volt Plugs
2:04 Checking For Reversed Polarity At An Outlet
4:19 Device Plugged Into An Outlet With Reversed Polarity
5:53 Checking For Reversed Polarity At A Light Fixture
8:30 Recap And Learning More
Tomi Engdahl says:
How To Install a 240 Volt Outlet | Electric Car Charging
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBxGo0qveNs
Safety First! Make sure you have the knowledge and experience needed prior to taking on this project. This video will cover all the steps needed to install a 240 Volt 50 Amp (NEMA 14-50) Outlet. This project is becoming more common for homeowners as the adoption of electric cars is increasing rapidly.
Chapters
0:00 Intro
0:45 Project Overview
5:58 Parts Overview
10:23 Fishing New Wire Through A Wall Cavity
14:26 Cutting Hole In Drywall For Conduit Body
16:37 Installing Conduit Run
25:44 Pulling Wire Through Conduit
36:46 Installing 220V Outlet In Electrical Box
42:14 Final Wire Connections At Electrical Panel
46:57 Final Test and Validation Of The System