Any form of energy, when not properly controlled or harnessed, can result in serious danger to those who use it. Electricity at any voltage can be dangerous and should always be approached with caution. Direct Dangers of Electricity include a variety of hazards that include Electric Shock, Physical Burns, Neurological Damage and Ventricular fibrillation resulting in death. The indirect dangers of electricity include for example fall due electric shock, an explosion, or a fire.
Electric Current affects the body when it flows through. Human can feel around about 1 milliampere (mA). The current may cause tissue damage or heart fibrillation if it is sufficiently high. 10-20 mA is beginning of sustained muscular contraction (“Can’t let go” current) and 30 mA can cause the onset of potentially fatal respiratory paralysis. A low-voltage (110 to 220 V), 50 or 60-Hz AC current travelling through the chest for a fraction of a second may induce ventricular fibrillation at currents as low as 60mA.
Today’s U.S. electricity system is a complex network of power plants, transmission and distribution wires, and end-users of electricity.
Electrical safety is the leading subject in the North American power industry, but at home people in USA are stuck with a 100+ year old plug design that is far behind other countries in terms of safety features.
ARE AMERICAN PLUG SOCKETS DANGEROUS? video gives some observations about the differences between the UK and US electrics and fire safety:
“Each year, approximately 2,400 children suffer severe shock and burns when they stick items into the slots of electrical receptacles. It is estimated that there are six to 12 child fatalities a year related to this.”
I guess that data makes me wonder about those who say they are safe.
Perhaps the weakest link in the US electrical system video gives on overview of dangers of electrical outlets and extension cords.
Most of North America (and Central America, and some of South America) use connectors standardized by the National Electrical Manufacturers Association. Those connectors are called NEMA connectors.
NEMA 1-15 ungrounded (Type A) plugs have two parallel blades and are rated 15 A at 125 volts. They provide no ground connection but will fit a grounding NEMA 5-15 receptacle. Ungrounded NEMA-1 outlets are not permitted in new construction in the United States and Canada, but can still be found in older buildings. You can shock yourself with many USA NEMA connectors if you just slipped around the end at the wrong moment. That is the original plug from the very early 20th century… It couldn’t be changed later because there were too many NEMA-1 outlets in service.
NEMA 5-15 grounded (Type B) plug has two flat parallel blades like NEMA 1-15, and a ground (earth) pin. It is rated 15 A at 125 volts. The National Electrical Contractors Association’s National Electrical Installation Standards (NECA 130-2010) recommends that sockets are mounted with the ground hole up so that a falling object makes first contact with the ground pin. This socket is recommended in IEC standard 60906-2 for 120-volt 60 Hz installations. NEMA 5-15 grounded (Type B) sockets accepts also NEMA 1-15 ungrounded (Type A) plugs. In stage lighting, this connector is sometimes known as PBG for Parallel Blade with Ground, Edison or Hubbell. “Typical” 120v receptacles are protected with 15A breaker. This protects the outlet against overload.
Starting with the 2008 Edition of the NEC (National Electrical Code) the NEC has required tamper-resistant receptacles be used in certain locations. The NEC has been increasing the requirement for receptacles to be tamper-resistant with the revisions after that.
Tamper-resistant receptacles work by having a plastic shutter in front of where the plug gets inserted, which is only moved out of place if objects are placed into both slots of the receptacle TR-rated outlets feature “TR” engraved into the outlet faceplate, typically between the two prongs. The shutters remain closed until the proper plug is inserted. This ensures that items like knives, forks, or loose jewelry are not able to access plugs, thus reducing electrical shock injury.
Nothing is safe. There are only degrees of safety. None of these designs can always prevent a determined or negligent person from electrocuting themselves.
There are some people that think that TR Tamper Resistant Outlets Suck
There are also higher current than 15A outputs in use in USA, but a general-use receptacle cannot be on any circuit larger than 20 amps. The NEMA 5-20 AP variant has blades perpendicular to each other. The receptacle has a T-slot for the neutral blade which accepts either 15 A parallel-blade plugs or 20 A plugs. The NEMA 5-20 AP wall socket can accept both 20A plug and 15A plug.
While normal electrical outlets in USA output 120V AC, that’s not the whole story and the voltage the power distribution to most houses work. The distribution voltage is normally the sum of the two 120V lines that are are at opposite phase (180 degree phase shift) plus neutral wire. But in some cases power can come from two 120V lines that have 120 degrees phase shift (some locations which use certain type of three phase power feed). Learn about the US electrical system in this The US electrical system is not 120V video:
US electrical system uses circuit breakers as wiring and fire protection. Circuit breakers are there to stop the cable in the walls of your house melting and possibly catching fire – circuit breakers and fuses perform the function of stopping a fire (which of course is also very dangerous to life). Standard circuit breakers shut off power when the current is too high, like 10, 15, or 20 amps, but a mere 0.030 amps through a body can cause paralysis of skeletal muscles and stop the human heart.
If you are at new house built according current code, you are likely to have also GFCI or AFCI designed trip before anything bad happens. GFCI can protect in many cases against human touching live wire and ground at the same time. But GFCI does not provide protection in all cases, for example if you have your finger between live and neutral contacts on mains plug. AFCI is designed trip if there is arching on the wiring like bad contact, loose wire or failing insulation on wire. AFCI can detect many problems, but not all.
Generally, when things get hot because of overloading, it’s at the connection point and not in the wire. For instance, a lot of electrical fires start at the plug/socket interface either because the connection is poor, there could be corrosion, etc. And sometimes they can happen when nothing is overloaded! This is one of the circumstances in which arc-fault circuit interrupters can save lives.
Overloading an electrical outlet is a common cause of electrical problems. Theoretically the breaker should protect the outlet against overloads, but it does not always do that especially if outlet or wiring is in bad condition. Do not use cords, plugs or outlets that appear damaged, replace them. Always ensure plugs are fully pushed in. Check all outlets to ensure they are cool to the touch, have protective faceplates and are in proper working order. Only grasp plugs by the plug body, keep fingers away from the front edge near the pins and do not pull plugs out by the cords.
There is a a recommendation that do not use extension cords or multi-outlet converters for appliances, because there are many problems related to US extension cords.
Damaged power cords are a serious residential electrical safety risk, and they are capable of causing both fires and electrocution. All power and extension cords should be checked regularly for signs of fraying and cracking. Power cords should not be stapled into place or run under rugs and furniture.
Besides making sure that the extension cord is in good shape, you need to be really careful that type of extension cord you use in USA. An extension cord essentially is a bundle of insulated electrical wires with a plug on each end. Electrical current flowing through wires generates heat, and when too much current flows through a wire, it can overheat and melt the plastic insulation of the wires, causing short circuits and fires.
Equipment or in-wall wire heating is normally not a problem when you plug an appliance directly into an outlet using its factory cord because the manufacturer has sized the cord appropriately for the electrical current demand of the device. The size of wiring inside wall is rated based on the breaker size on the mains panel (typically 15A or 20A). The size of the wire on the extension cord can be condiderably thinner, and the mains panel breaker might not protect it against overheating due overload. Some better extension cords can have their own overload breaker built-in but not all.
I think allowing unfused 16 gauge (16AWG = 1.5 mm2) extension cords into the market is a potentially bad link in the chain that we could probably do with cutting out. That wire is still pretty OK up to 15A load current, will get warn. If you plug it to 20A outlet and load with 20A total load, it can get dangerously hot (around 1.8 times more power heating the cable at 20A than at 15A). Pulling 20 amps through that cord made it get very hot quite quickly.
In fairness, it used to be much worse. 18 gauge (maybe even 20 gauge) extension cords were available many years ago, but regulators had the sense to make 16 the minimum as time went on.
There are also small compact ungrounded extension cords that have such designs whete users can plug in plug so wrongly that they are halfway out leaving the live parts so that the live main voltage can be present on the exposed mains plug pins.
Most electrical fires aren’t the result of a single thing; they’re a cascade of individually not-great circumstances combining to make a bad situation. In order to reduce the risk of fires, we’ve continually been making the not-great things less bad.
272 Comments
Tomi Engdahl says:
HOW TO MAKE A SUPER EXTENSION CORD!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EseFbug7cMg
Extension Cord companies aren’t gonna like this one! In this video we show you how to wire up your broken extension cords to make them better, safer, and essentially keep them forever. We hope you pick up a tip or two, let us know what you think! Thanks for watching and we’ll see ya on the next one!
THE ULTIMATE EXTRA HEAVY DUTY HOSPITAL GRADE 20amp-125v GFCI QUAD BOX EXTENSION CORD ?!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyLWUrb0KrQ
In this video, I do my first electrical project on my own. I think it came out great and was alot of fun. It also got me thinking about future little electric projects.
Tomi Engdahl says:
6 MISTAKES DIYers Make When Wiring Outlets
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XmiG4KzZ4sg
These 6 mistakes that we make as DIYers can be dangerous. Are you familiar with all six and how to wire an outlet or light switch properly and safely? #electrical #diy #tipsandtricks
Tomi Engdahl says:
BEWARE Of These 3 Common Wiring Mistakes On Outlets & Switches
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=irK7l3eyB8g
90% of homeowners wire outlets wrong, learn how to do it right & AVOID these 3 COMMON ELECTRIC MISTAKES & learn an EASIER way to wire up your outlets with BETTER CONNECTIONS every time.
Tomi Engdahl says:
How To Wire A Room For Electricity – Bedroom Wiring Rough In
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ccrQBLvQTPQ
In this video I will show you how to wire a room for electricity. I take you step by step on how to rough in a bedroom wiring. House wiring for electricity is something I learned over years of wiring my own houses. Electrical for beginners is the audience this is intended for. I go over switch wiring, outlet wiring, ceiling fan wiring, electrical box fill, and much more!
Tomi Engdahl says:
The BEST power strip for musicians and DJs? Furman SS-6b Quick Look
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNckrxQ3AQE
Tomi Engdahl says:
Electrical Mistakes That Every Electrician NEEDS To STOP Making!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNWmXVXO4co
Electrical Mistakes That Every Electrician NEEDS To STOP Making!
Welcome back to Electrician District, today on the channel we are going to check out the Electrical DIY mistakes people have made. Electrical work is dangerous. The Electrical Safety Foundation reported that electricity is the cause of more than $140,000 fires each year, resulting in 400 deaths, 4,000 injuries, and $1.6 billion in property damages. Many DIY (Do-It-Yourself) electrical projects violate building and safety codes and could harm the resale value of your home or business. Unfortunately, people still try to perform their own electrical work despite the dangers. Here is a list of the 5 common DIY mistakes:
Not Securing the Outlet. It’s a simple thing to do. Make sure the outlet is secured in place. Grab a screwdriver and securely tighten the two screws (one at the top and one at the bottom) to the box behind it. If it’s not firmly held in place, it can move. This can result in electrical arcing, which can result in fire. It can also damage whatever you plug in to them. Securing the outlet also helps when you put on the plate, making sure everything lines up nicely. Not Using GFCI Outlets in Electrical Projects. GFCI stands for ground fault circuit interrupter and it protects people from one form of accidental electrical shock. They monitor the amount of power leaving and returning to the outlet. If a short-circuit routes current through you to the ground, they sense the drop in 1/40th of a second or less and cut the power. GFCI receptacles cut the power any time a slight variation is detected. Proximity to a water source offers a prime example of where a GFCI should appear in an electrical project. Finish this video for more Electrical DIY mistakes people have made.
Tomi Engdahl says:
AWG – American Wire Gauge Current Ratings
Amp ratings vs. US AWG wire gauges.
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html
urces, Tools and Basic Information for Engineering and Design of Technical Applications!
AWG – American Wire Gauge Current Ratings
Amp ratings vs. US AWG wire gauges.
Sponsored Links
The AWG – American Wire Gauge – is used as a standard method denoting wire diameter, measuring the diameter of the conductor (the bare wire) with the insulation removed. AWG is sometimes also known as Brown and Sharpe (B&S) Wire Gauge.
The AWG table below is for a single, solid, round conductor. Because of the small gaps between the strands in a stranded wire, a stranded wire with the same current-carrying capacity and electrical resistance as a solid wire, always have a slightly larger overall diameter.
The higher the number – the thinner the wire. Typical household wiring is AWG number 12 or 14. Telephone wire is typical AWG 22, 24, or 26.
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://www.jst.fr/doc/jst/pdf/current_rating.pdf
Tomi Engdahl says:
How much current can 2.5 mm2 cable carry?
Current Ratings
Conductor cross-sectional area, allowable continuous current and stranding. Maximum Current in amps for a single conductor at insulation temperature ratings
Cross sectional Area mm2 60°C 105°C
1.5 12 25
2.5 17 35
4 22 45
https://www.energy-solutions.co.uk/technical-information
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://www.multicable.com/resources/reference-data/current-carrying-capacity-of-copper-conductors/
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/38515/what-is-the-max-current-for-awg16
The reason you’re getting lots of different answers is that there is no hard maximum current a particular cable can handle since it depends on the application.
You need to specify what physical limit you don’t want to exceed for your “maximum” criterion. Do you want the wire not to rise above ambient temperature some amount? If so, what amount? If you can only tolerate a 10°C rise, then the maximum current will be less than if you can tolerate a 50°C rise, for example. Or maybe the limiting parameter for your application is voltage drop, which could make the maximum current quite different again.
AWG #16 copper wire has a resistance of 4.016 Ω per 1000 feet, or 4.016 mΩ/foot, or 13.18 mΩ/m. If you need to keep the voltage drop along 1 m of wire to 100 mV or less, then you can’t push more than 7.59 A thru it. If you need to limit the power dissipation to 1 W/foot, then you can’t push more than 15.8 A thru it. 1 W/foot would get noticably warm, but should not be dangerously so for most uses.
If you are using it for house wiring, then it becomes a legal matter and you simply look up the answer. One chart I looked at says the limit is 3.7 A for “power transmission”. That was chosen to be very conservative so that some amount of degradation and screwups can happen and your house is unlikely to burn down due to overloaded wiring. Legal limits will vary by jurisdiction and which electrical code is being applied. You will have to consult the electrical code that applies to your area and circumstance to get the answer.
That same chart that shows 3.7 A as the maximum for power transmission also shows 22 A maximum for “chassis wiring”. Presumably more temperature rise is acceptable inside a chassis.
So to get a straight answer, you have to tell us what you are really trying to do. There simply is no inherent maximum current until you get to where the copper melts. Even that depends on ambient temperature assumptions.
It is important to note that the current that can flow through a wire depends on a few factors:
allowable voltage drop. As mentioned in the answer by stevenvh, it depends on the length of wire you are using and the application in question
allowable temperature of the wire, and insulation
I’ve usually worked with the idea that a wire at 70 degrees is pretty damn hot. I believe a lot of the time the ratings for cable insulation sheath is rated to 100 degrees.
If you have 16 AWG wire with a silicon insulation you’ll find its rating to be substantially higher than cheaper plastic insulation.
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://waypointinspection.com/how-many-outlets-20-amp-circuit/
Tomi Engdahl says:
Why don’t Americans use electric kettles?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yMMTVVJI4c
Tomi Engdahl says:
How to Wire 208V & 120V, 1-Phase & 3-Phase Main Panel? 3-Φ Load Center Wiring
https://www.electricaltechnology.org/2021/02/how-to-wire-208v-120v-1-phase-3-phase-main-panel.html
In the USA, 208V single phase and three phase voltage is one of the standard voltage levels used for commercial applications. It can be derived from Wye-Wye (Star to Star), Delta-Wye or High leg delta configuration of primary and secondary windings of the transformer.
In this post, we will consider the Wye-Wye connection for the single phase and three phase 208V and additionally 120V single phase distribution panel wiring.
Tomi Engdahl says:
How to build a Multi-outlet Power Distribution Box (Power Strip).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1EqEbHT-I3o
In this video I will show you how to make a multiple outlet Power distribution box (Power strip). It can be convenient for plugging in power tools, DJ equipment or anywhere you need multiple outlet extension cord.
Tomi Engdahl says:
HOW TO MAKE A SUPER EXTENSION CORD!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EseFbug7cMg
Extension Cord companies aren’t gonna like this one! In this video we show you how to wire up your broken extension cords to make them better, safer, and essentially keep them forever. We hope you pick up a tip or two, let us know what you think! Thanks for watching and we’ll see ya on the next one!
THE ULTIMATE EXTRA HEAVY DUTY HOSPITAL GRADE 20amp-125v GFCI QUAD BOX EXTENSION CORD ?!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyLWUrb0KrQ
Tomi Engdahl says:
What is the difference between an orange isolated ground outlet and a standard outlet?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AvNfnbBHcrk
This video is a quick explanation of the differences between an orange isolated ground outlet and a standard outlet.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Isolation Transformers, Variac’s and Current Limiters – Which comes first?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xD4Ow6kaWg
When setting up a well equipped electronics lab or test bench, there is a proper sequence in which these items should be connected. They are: Isolation Transformer – Variac – Dim Bulb Current Limiter. This video explores the reasons for this sequence.
Tomi Engdahl says:
How to Fix an Open Neutral Receptacle When the Problem is Upstream in the Circuit
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGgQGiUvcCU
Tomi Engdahl says:
What is a Hot Ground Reverse?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PKCdQ2F5lc
One of the few common light configurations on a three-light tester is one that is labeled as a “Hot-Ground Reverse.” This is a very rare situation that would be very difficult (and dangerous) to achieve. However, it is not too difficult to achieve a totally different wiring configuration that can cause a 3-light tester to give the indication of a hot-ground reverse.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Understanding an Open or Loaded Neutral
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsuezfpA-Po
What is a loaded or open neutral, and why did I get a shock from it? This video is about getting a shock from an open or loaded neutral conductor. The problem in this example was an electrical circuit that was being worked on during a renovation. A junction box had been taken apart and the splices undone. When the power was restored to the circuit with these splices not reconnected yet, that’s what caused the condition. The neutral needs to be a direct path back to the panel and never switched, or left undone. Here is more detail on my website that has a diagram to better illustrate the concept.
https://www.electrical-online.com/understanding-an-open-or-loaded-neutral/
Tomi Engdahl says:
How to Wire a GFCI Outlet – What’s Line vs Load? – Electrical Wiring 101
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uop79H_iqoQ
This video covers the essentials of installing a GFCI Outlet (or GFCI receptacle), including line vs load terminals, wiring basics, why back wiring is OK and much more!
Tomi Engdahl says:
DEWENWILS Outdoor Extension Cord Cover
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=av5tvzYvAEI
This weatherproof extension cord connection box provides a watertight sealed space to protect outdoor & indoor plug connections from the elements like water, snow, rain, dust, and dirt to ensure circuit safety ( Note: It is just water-resistant. Do not submerse it in water)
Tomi Engdahl says:
How to DIY install an outdoor outlet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8E4ktjlBhF8
Hey guys, this is how I installed an outdoor outlet for my new patio. Fairly straight forward, the hardest part is just making sure that everything is water tight.
Outdoor Outlet from Indoor Outlet Installation
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqiYXkeax0I
Extend power from an indoor outlet to an outdoor outlet. Pretty easy to do, just need to make sure you secure power or call an electrician if you are not comfortable doing this kind of work.
Tomi Engdahl says:
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/63890/how-much-can-i-safely-plug-into-a-light-socket-converted-to-a-standard-outlet
Tomi Engdahl says:
6.2.1 – Maximum demand
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/6.2.1.htm
Tomi Engdahl says:
Setting Up and Monitoring Power Distribution for Lighting and Audio with Richard Cadena – Webinar
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWQuOM0x3WU
Freelance lighting professional, author and trainer Richard Cadena explores safely setting up portable power distribution systems, avoiding problems like overloaded circuits, excessive heat, ground loops and induced noise, proper system monitoring and how to prevent electrical accidents.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Inspector Finds DANGEROUS Federal Pacific STAB-LOK Electrical Panel
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=guobBKd5XU8
The Federal Pacific Stab Lok has a history of problems. For safety reasons these panels need to be replaced.
Here is a informative article about the Federal Pacific Stab Lok panels:
Federal Pacific Electric Stab-Lok panels are hazardous
https://structuretech.com/fpe-stab-lok/
The most notorious electric panel is the Federal Pacific Electric Stab-Lok panel, also known as an FPE panel, Federal Pacific panel, or Stab-Lok. All Stab-Lok panels were made by Federal Pacific Electric, and most panels I’ve found made by Federal Pacific are the Stab-Lok type. In other words, you can usually use these terms interchangeably.
I recommend the proactive replacement of FPE Stab-Lok panels, whether the panel has previously caused a house to start on fire or not. Here’s why:
Federal Pacific Electric (FPE) sold millions of panels between the 1950s and 1980s.
Testing by the Consumer Product Safety Commission has shown these breakers to have an unacceptably high rate of failure, which creates a safety hazard.
Testing has proven that virtually every panel installed in the United States contains defective breakers.
FPE committed fraud by falsifying their UL testing, making their UL listing void.
If a breaker fails to trip when it should, the wires in the home that are supposed to be protected can start on fire.
So why don’t we recommend having an electrician evaluate the panel? There’s no point. There is nothing that an electrician can do or say to make an FPE Stab-Lok panel safe. Some electricians are under the impression that FPE panels are safe if they can turn every breaker on and off, if every breaker is tightly attached, and if there is no evidence of overheating or scorching in the panel. These things would be dead giveaways that there is a problem, but to truly know if the breaker would trip when it needs to, each breaker would need to actually be tested. This testing would be more expensive than having the entire panel replaced.
What does it cost to replace a panel? Replacing an old, unsafe electrical panel is not a huge investment. In most cases, the total cost for this project is less than $1,500. Not only does this eliminate the hazards associated with this panel, but all newer panels have the option to have Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCIs) installed, for added fire safety. AFCI devices are not available for older Stab-Lok panels.
The bottom line is that hazards associated with FPE panels are a known issue throughout the electrical, insurance, and home inspection communities.
Tomi Engdahl says:
How To Add An Outlet To A Finished Wall
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nWfEANZOYSk
I will walk you through the process of adding an outlet to an existing circuit without going up to the attic or down to the basement. This also will make it so you will have no drywall repair or painting to do after the installation.
Viewer comments:
Industrial electrician here – this tutorial was brilliant. It’s so annoying when someone shows how to run wire and they have a big ol basement under it to run it through – ya obviously that’s easy if you got that but most people don’t. The trim trick and even pre-installing the connector was very clever and as someone who does work on his own house I really appreciate it – thanks and bravo!
Your video taught me a great deal. Until now I’ve been more surgical at this type of work–cutting smaller holes just at the studs, then passing the wire through notches and kick plates. But that leads to occasional difficulties remounting the trim or sheetrock between the added space of the kick plates and their nail-repelling properties. Your method, with the wholesale removal of the sheetrock at the beginning, avoids all those problems and only adds a little extra cleanup. Thank you for showing us!
Tomi Engdahl says:
A Guide to the 2023 National Electrical Safety Code Updates cover how to incorporate 5G and other technologies
https://spectrum.ieee.org/2023-national-electrical-safety-code
Since 1914, the National Electrical Safety Code has been a go-to standard for electric and telecom utility companies. The code is updated every five years. The 2023 edition, scheduled to be released on 1 August, becomes effective on 1 February.
The NESC updates better protect workers, the public, and facilities during the installation, operation, and maintenance of power and communications supplies.
Tomi Engdahl says:
How many Amps to burn up 14/2 electrical wiring?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QccOg_J1Xhw
We overload standard 14/2 wire commonly used in Canadian and American houses to find out how much current it can handle before it melts and burns up. Spoiler: It handles way more than its 15 Amp current rating as one would hope for a good safety margin. Of course it should never normally to subjected to anything beyond than its standard current rating.
Tomi Engdahl says:
5 CLEVER Electrical Tricks Everyone Should Know
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hlo87E_GdQ
Tomi Engdahl says:
Connectors: Which is the Weakest Link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cMVnOZCGljc
Here we test 6 common connectors used for household wiring: A standard wire nut aka Marr connector, a heavier duty wire nut Marrette connector, an Ideal In-Sure press-in connector, a Wago 221 Lever Nut connector, a regular 120V outlet connecting wires with its internal press-in connector, and a regular 120V outlet connecting wires with wit screw connectors. We try ever increasing currents from 20 to 70 Amps to see how they hold up to currents way beyond what they were intended for, and then finally over 270 Amps to simulate a short. Two of them even survived that.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Lets try overloading some extension cords.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0g2LinZWyA
Lets see what could happen if you plug too many heavy loads into a light duty extension cord on a 15A or 20A circuit. We test the worst case scenario where it takes as long as 30 minutes for a breaker to trip with a 50% overload current.
We also try a 200+ Amp current on the cords to see what would happen if the breaker fails and doesn’t trip on a short.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Yikes! Don’t use this Chinese-made Outlet!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0gVgvsG-XY
I came across this Chines-made outlet that accepts standard Canadian and US 120V 15A and 20A plugs as well as 240V 15A and 20A plugs. Regardless of whether you use it as a 120V or 240V outlet, its a really bad idea and even dangerous: powering many devices with half or double the voltage they are made for can easily make them burn out or catch fire, and this outlet provides no protection against that the way standard outlets do.
Viewer comments:
I naively thought that those 120/240 combos could be wired to supply both voltages at the same time, but clearly not!
Thank you for the video!
You do not need those chinese outlets to make a mistake and connect an appliance to the wrong voltage… Many times I have seen where a prong has been twisted and bent to fit.. Someone tried it at work to make a commercial toaster with a NEMA 5-20 plug fit a NEMA 6-15 receptacle where another commercial toaster of different voltage once sat…..
Let’s just say a 120v toaster running at 208V ( 3 phase supply in building) made toast really fast, only made it once tho
That leviton combination receptacle would be a good choice to put for a window air conditioner if the space to be cooled could be done with a larger 240v unit. Gives the option to plug in any AC you want and have a dedicated circuit to do so.
Never seen such an outlet. However, there is a ungrounded version of this, it been banned for many years but nonetheless is often found in really old homes with knob and tube or the old cloth braided NM no ground. These were two prong T slots, in the earlier part of the 20th century like in the 1910s, ’20s and ’30s, when a large number of homes were electrified for the first time and home appliances began appearing in large numbers there were actually to versions of plugs for 120 V use, horizontal and vertical prongs. The receptacle had a 125v 15a / 250v 10a rating, before the industry agreed to standardize You had to know what voltage was supplied, because although most were 120 volts, some were 240 volts. If you break the ground prong on a 240 volt 15 or 20 amp air conditioner plug you can plug into this old receptacle.
Nema 6-15 and 6-20 are great for portable level 2 car chargers!
Bad idea to use those holes on the back of the outlet, they don’t make a good connection, don’t be lazy, use the screw terminals to attach the wire IF you are about doing it right.
Never use anything but UL listed commercial/residential outlets. The “residential” one’s are fine for a lamp that’s never unplugged. In my home, I’m replacing all 15 amp plugs and wiring with 20 amp receptacles and 12/2 wire with 20 amp combination arc fault breakers. They cost more, but well worth it. The commercial outlets are sturdier and can handle having plugs being frequently inserted and removed without harming the outlets contacts.
Click bait video. This dude is playing hide- the -ball: is the Chinese made receptacle UL listed for USA? There are many electrical products made and used around the world. Some plugs use combination of round and flat connectors not found in USA — ie, not UL listed for USA. Is this dude making a straw man argument ?
Those 240v duplex recpt ya you don’t see those much unless you seen an indoor grow setup, then they are quite common LOL.
I findt it purplexing that north america have’t re-design their power outlets and plugs .
Maby just add an extra hot prong, to get a dual 115 and 230v outlet, and still keep backwards compatability with their acient unsafe old 115v plugs.
Then finnaly joining the rest of the world, with deacent capacity out of a standard outlet.
So many Amps, so much wasted thic guage cabeling, , just to get half the Watt-capability from a standard outlet.
Tomi Engdahl says:
3 Mistakes I Made Installing a NEMA 14-50 Outlet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTT0mkVq-8s
0:00 Introduction
0:42 The Outlet
5:03 Wire Gauge
6:41 GFCI
8:46 Conclusions
reinstall a NEMA 14-50 outlet for electric vehicle charging to correct potentially dangerous issues. I upgraded to a Hubbell/Bryant outlet, adjusted the circuit breaker, torqued connections, and discuss GFCI for EV outlets. This is a follow-up to my previous outlet installation video here:
https://youtu.be/_HLGZ4K75n0
Tomi Engdahl says:
The Quicktest QT1 : A great tool for electrical testing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zK3aXApLPRI
A quick video about the the Quicktest QT1 – a device from the UK that makes testing electric devices that are missing plugs easier and safer.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Overcurrent +14/2 + Fiberglass in a 2×4 Wall
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Df7bAEdIILI
As requested by so many of you, I made a section of 2×4 wall with a 14/2 wire running through it in both a hollow section (interior wall) and a pink fiberglass insulated section (outside wall) and then passed increasing amounts of current though it to simulate a dangerous overcurrent situation.
Also as you suggested, I did some crude temperature measurements with a IR thermometer gun.
For those of you not in Canada or the US, this type of wall is very typical over here, and the 14/2 wiring strung though holes in the center of the studs is how a lot of wiring is done. We have 120V household power and #14 wire is rated for 15 Amps in most situations although 12A is the max continuous load that should be on a 15A circuit.
In this test we try 20, 30, 40 and 50 Amps to see when and how the cable fails. This might represent a situation where a circuit breaker malfunctions and fails to trip even when for example someone has plugged in a bunch off heaters on the same circuit which also shouldn’t happen.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Isolation Transformers and GFCI Outlets
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olq9wdeNS4c
I briefly discuss how to use a GFCI (aka RCD) outlet or an Isolation Transformer for electrical safety when experimenting with, repairing, or testing electrical equipment. Also covered are the considerations of when to use a ground or not, and some examples of when GFCI’s or isolation transformers may not (completely) protect you. I hope this video will be useful for DIYers at home and also for the worplace when prototyping new products (of which I have done a lot!) and testing products safely during the manufacturing process.
Tomi Engdahl says:
How to Wire a GFCI Outlet – What’s Line vs Load? – Electrical Wiring 101
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uop79H_iqoQ&t=41s
This video covers the essentials of installing a GFCI Outlet (or GFCI receptacle), including line vs load terminals, wiring basics, why back wiring is OK and much more!
Wire a GFCI Outlet without a Ground Wire in an Older Home
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QaQFZtOxGQg
How to Wire a GFCI Outlet in an older home that does not have a ground wire and still have protection against ground faults that can cause electric shock. This method is approved by the NEC Electrical Code and assures older homes to have GFCI protection in the required areas, including the Kitchen, Bathroom, Garage, and Outdoor areas. GFCI Outlets are an essential device in all homes, and are required for home inspections, and home electrical system upgrades.
Complete with easy to understand wiring examples, and an easy to follow process which is explained by a licensed electrical contractor.
Tomi Engdahl says:
How To Fix Sunken Outlet | 2 Easy Options
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ww6huRWr_YI
If you own an older home or possibly just did a backsplash project needing to fix a sunken outlet or light switch is a common job. This does not need to be complex but there are a few things to consider and tips I will show you to ensure you can get this fixed yourself giving a professional finished product.
Tomi Engdahl says:
How To Fix Drooping Electrical Outlet Or Switch On Wall – 5 Easy Tips and Tricks! DIY For Beginners!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yuL8Kybzfk
On this episode I’m going to show you How To Fix Drooping or sagging Electrical Outlet or switch on wall with 5 Easy Tips and Tricks! This is a perfect DIY Tutorial For Beginners! Outlets and switches with their covers tend to disconnect to their electrical box or Junction box over time and start to sag. I have the perfect solution to solve this issue! These tips and tricks solutions that I will show you will fix the problem and have those outlets with their covers sitting flush again with your wall guaranteed! So make sure you don’t skip any of the tips and trick methods that I show you because they are all great solutions!
Tomi Engdahl says:
How to add an electrical outlet ANYWHERE (2022)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-CY3MsI97zg
in this Video I will show you how to add an electrical outlet anywhere you want. If you need to add an outlet where there is not one available, follow these simple steps and you will be able to add an outlet all by yourself.
0:00 Start
0:21 Intro
2:30 Locating The Studs
4:51 Finding the power source
6:23 Running the wire
7:27 Installing the New Box
10:15 Wiring the new outlet
13:49 Connecting to the power source
14:42 Finalizing Installation
15:09 Outro
Tomi Engdahl says:
EV Charging Disaster
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BnK4a4aVpU
In this video, Chris corrects an issue with his EV charging outlet based on feedback on his NEMA 14-50 installation video. This situation is a common cause of house fires.
Great video, I would also add that many attached garages are not required to have smoke or heat detectors in the garage. With many of us now charging very large batteries in the garage we really need to put some thought into safety systems and perhaps change code to get detectors in the garage.
How to Install an Electric Vehicle Charger Receptacle
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHzvcQ1lzmg
Electric Vehicles are becoming more and more popular on a daily basis. Maybe you own one yourself or know someone that does. Either way, one of those vehicles are going to need a way to charge their batteries. In this latest episode of Electrician U, Dustin walks us through the process of installing an electric vehicle charging receptacle in a residence.
Tomi Engdahl says:
120V 240V Electricity explained – Split phase 3 wire electrician
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJeRabV5hNU
How 120V / 240V electricity is distributed from the power station and to your property. We look at how it is connected to power domestic appliances as well as the main components such as the electricity meter, main service panel, main breaker, circuit breaker, bus bars, neutral ground bar, light switches and lighting circuits, transformers, GFCI circuit breakers, AFCI circuit breakers. The purpose of the hot wire, neutral wire and ground wire as well as the ground rod and the water pipe bonding.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Installing 220v Outlets in the Shop – Easier Than You Thought
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u296hiXRzlE
Installing a 220/240v 50A Outlet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=–XUP9UQ9bg
Tomi Engdahl says:
How To Convert 120V Receptacles Or Branch Circuits To 240V! (Also 240V To 120V)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=crqYh5xtnoY
Learn how to easily convert 120v electrical receptacles or dedicated branch circuits to 240v, or convert a 240v receptacle (Branch Circuit) to 120v. A step by step DIY electrical guide. How to convert 120v or 240v electrical outlets, properly wire a circuit breaker panel and branch circuit using single and double pole breakers. Enjoy!
DISCLAIMER: Proper safety measures/precautions must be taken when working on 120v or 240v AC mains wiring(branch circuits). The potential exists for serious injuries, property damage, or death. If you’re uncomfortable doing as shown in this video, or don’t fully understand what was done, then you SHOULD NOT touch the wiring! This channel will not be held liable for the use or misuse of information contained in this video. The person modifying the wiring accepts full responsibility for his/her actions. ELECTRONICSNMORE LLC
Tomi Engdahl says:
What’s The Difference? Clothes Dryer vs Range Stove Oven | Power Cords and Outlet Receptacles
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haENHuehIsE
Quick basic video for those unsure about what cord to purchase for their electric range or electric dryer. It’s important to check the receptacle behind your appliance. Is it a 3-prong? Is it a 4-prong? Are all the terminals straight, or is one of them L-shaped?
Range power cords and receptacles should have a straight or I-shaped neutral. Dryer power cords and receptacles should have a L-shaped neutral.
Be sure you know you have the correct cord for the appliance you’re installing, but first check the outlet behind the appliance and be sure the cord will plug into the outlet. Nothing more frustrating than purchasing a 3-prong dryer power cord and finding out later you have a 4-prong receptacle.
Tomi Engdahl says:
This Metal Block Fixes A Common Electrical Panel Problem
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yi8sY-MmjSI
Synopsis:
If you’re a homeowner looking to sell, or a beginner electrician finishing a job, a very common place to fail the electrical portion of an inspection is in “separation of grounds and neutrals after the 1st disconnecting means”. This video will simply and practically show what’s wrong and how to make it right. While we don’t recommend homeowners correct this themselves, we hope this video provides a thorough overview with which to understand a quality electrician’s work.
Tomi Engdahl says:
Can 15 Amp Outlets Be Used On A 20 Amp Circuit Breaker
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1LZfIV9GBs
We will cover a few different items associated with this topic. First we will discuss code, then move on to safety/fire hazard, and finish up on what appliances actually need more than 15 Amps. I will also cover my recommendation for increasing your knowledge of the national electrical code as a DIYer and what type of outlet you should be using on all your future electrical projects.
Viewer comments:
to make things perfectly clear, receptalces have two ratings: they have a device rating and they have a feed-through rating. nearly all receptacles with a 15 amp device rating have a 20 amp feed through rating. the ones that don’t are the ones that don’t have screw terminals. those shouldn’t be used on a 20 amp circuit, and more conscientious electricians believe they shouldn’t be used at all.
lectrician weighing in: I’ve always used the commercial spec grade outlets in kitchen areas, same with back when we used to do split receptacles. Lower resistance connection points which results in less heat especially for the heavy counter top loads running at or near 1500W. Well worth the extra $ in terms of user experience, safety and device longevity.
For devices that may require the 20 Amp outlet, the current PC market is heading towards more power draw. PC power supplies over 1,500 watt rating have the capacity to draw over 15 amps of power if pushed to full (and efficiency rating is 80% or less at 100% load).
Additional information: As stated, you can put 15A outlets on a 20A circuit provided there’s more than one outlet on that circuit. The code also specifically states that the double outlets, such as the ones he was taking apart, count as 2, so they count as more than one outlet. The outlets that count as only 1 outlet are the round ones with only a single set of holes in them and no other outlets on the circuit. This is usually only done on a dedicated outlet for a high amperage device, such as a window air conditioner or a large air compressor.
Amazing how manufacturers squeeze every last penny out of the manufacturing process by eliminating a tiny bit of metal.
5:10 that older 15 uncovered is definitely different than the new 20.
That older one looks like it might be 5-20R or 5-20P ready.
The horizontal is on both side.
actually, the most common wiring technique uses mostly 15 amp circuits for receptacles, and then when the homeowner has trouble with the breaker tripping when they try to use their Hoover Wind Tunnel Vacuum, they ask a handyman to fix it and he bootlegs in a 20 amp breaker.
Another major negative for using a 20 Amp Adapter is that it only adds to the risk of overheating in two ways. The contacts will have some resistive properties with some heat being produced. The Adapter will also extend out, adding weight; increasing the chances of it coming loose during operation.
Manufactured homes that I’ve seen use 14 gauge wire for most of the wireing. To make things more interesting they daisy chain plug to plug with back stab 15 amp plugs.
After your video I looked at one of my plugs and it had gotten hit enough that it melted the plastic in the back and the wires got hot enough that I had to cut off more than an inch just so I could strip the wire!
I’m replacing ALL my plugs in the house. Have found 2 more not plugs
Love your videos…
I do applications for an x-ray company and our products are 20amp plugs… Even the lower energy systems (2.4kW). But we almost always have to use that little converter for small clinics and stuff. I have 3 in my bag.
There are also portable EVSEs for EV charging which have NEMA 5-20 adapters or plugs. The adapters signal the EVSE that the circuit is 20A so the car can safely pull 16A instead of the 12A it would normally pull from a NEMA 5-15. Needless to say, an extra 4A at 120v is insignificant compared to Level 2 charging at 220v or more but if you are limited to Level 1 it makes a big difference… literally 33% faster. Actually, it’s even more than that since most EVs default to 8A on 120v since the NEMA 5-15 outlets are often worn out and can melt at 12A. Heck, it even happened to me with a Chevy Volt at 12A. With a NEMA 5-20 adapter signaling to the EVSE that you aren’t using some 50 year old worn out outlet, it can go straight to 16A where before you had to override the default (8A) to even get 12A.